Відео

Thank you for your comment! You are right about the polarity and it is indeed wrong in the beginning (about 3:10). I did that to make a point of how easy it is to recognize and fix in the simulator. If you watch more of the video you will see that I show how to change the setup and prove the correct wiring.

I agree! After losing two batteries with it turned off I learned to remove the battery.

Yup, it's sad. If it's not too late I'd return it and try one or more different suppliers.

I agree, it does not have a built in blink program and requires a sketch. I made this video a long time ago and I think it automatically loaded the blink program in the simulator when you applied power but I can't remember. Maybe I loaded the blink program before making the video. We may never know :)

I just got busy with other things :( I miss it immensely and plan on starting up again one day... but it won't be for several months. Was there anything that you're particularly interested in?

You're welcome! I hope it saved you some frustration!!

Just connect them in parallel. Remove the green led cathode wire from the switch and connect it to the red led cathode.

I assume you're referring to kilo-ohms when you say 'K'. Ohms are a measurement of resistance and amps are a measurement of current. You can regulate current with resistance but you can't convert resistance to amps, so you can't convert K to amps. Use Ohm's law to calculate the resistance, current and voltage you desire.

@@MakeBasicElectronics I wasn't sure what you meant when you used K, I repeated it from what I thought I heard in your video. Kilo ohms make sense. I decided to buy about 5 different sized resistors to see which one comes closest to solving my problem and swap them in/out and test the results. I'm not qualified to understand the math currently (no pun intended, lol). I don't even know which size resistor would come closest to a solution or which is furthest. Once I have a few in hand I'll understand a lot more and might begin to have a basis for understanding what any math formulas I may find would be trying to tell me. 🙂

@@MakeBasicElectronics It turns out that no resistor was the best option in my application. However, I now see an example where I can try to learn ohm's law. I could never understand why I should need it before.

@@timkropf4648 It makes a big difference when you have a reason to learn it!

This power supply is apparently no longer available. But my guess is that any 5Amp supply would certainly be enough. But you should check the specs of your radio to be sure. The radio probably has a tag on it somewhere listing how many amps it draws.

Glad it helped!

Thanks for the thanks!

Hey that's great! Thanks for letting me know!

This is probably a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway... do you have the same model? Many models will not show 3 decimal places. If you have the same model, I believe that just tweaking the voltage and current knobs to a certain amount will sometimes change the resolution. (I found a new hobby for now, so I haven't used mine for a long time so I don't remember for sure.)

@@MakeBasicElectronics exactly the very same model, i turn every knob and push every button… without any luck at all

@@omarquintana3481 Maybe it needs a load. Did you try that? Otherwise, I don't know. Next step would be to contact their support I guess.

@@MakeBasicElectronics with or without a load same resolution, seams the manufacturer is no longer in business. The website is offline

Thanks for the thanks!

Thank you!

It's almost certainly a bad connection either from really skinny component leads or a bad breadboard. If it came from the real Arduino folks at Arduino.cc it's bound to be a high-quality breadboard though. It's also possible you have a bad component. And even less likely but possible, the capacitance of your body is triggering a sensitive component. But probably just a loose connection somewhere. Soldering everything is always a more secure way of doing it. Use perfboard for that. Here's a pretty good video if you're not familiar with perfboard: ua-cam.com/video/l9Kbr8cPqOE/v-deo.html

Is your arduino authentic, or a knockoff variant purchased elsewhere, like Amazon? I also had bad luck with those breadboards when I started. Pushing components seemed to be necessary to get proper flow because of the terrible wiring.

Exactly, Big Tech moved to SMD decades ago and only less sophisticated designs/power devices use THC components, so sadly there haven't been many quality of life improvements made for hobbyists.

Thank you for the thank you!

By default, the resistor is 1K when you drag it out to the work area. You can change that in the window that comes along with it. I just accepted that value because by previous experience, I knew that 1K was fine -- overkill actually, and in real life the LED may not even light up if using a 1k resistor. In real life, around 220 ohms would be plenty as you'll see in the calculations below. But I didn't want to bother with changing it as I knew Tinkercad would make it work. (I think Tinkercad tries to provide default values of everything in a safe range, but I am not sure.) You can build a circuit in Tinkcad and then use the multimeter to take various readings to help you (before or after you use calculations like those below). But if you want to calculate what the resistance value should be on your own, you use Ohm's law. Obviously, a resistor is used to limit current. You must know the current limit and voltage drop of the LED, and how much current the source (the Arduino) is capable of providing. You need to check spec sheets or other data sources of both to learn those things before you start. An LED spec sheet will tell you that a standard red LED has a voltage drop of around 2 volts and requires about 20mA (.020A) to light nicely. An Arduino spec sheet will tell you that each output pin of a standard Arduino can supply a max of 40mA at 5 volts. So you know the Arduino is capable of driving the LED. So now you just need to calculate the value of the resistor to limit the LED current to 20mA. The Arduino supplies 5 volts but the red LED takes up 2 volts because of its internal voltage drop, so you're left with 3 volts (5v - 2v) to use in the calculation. Ohm's law states R=V/I. So R=3V/.02A. R=150 ohms. You can double-check yourself by changing the formula around to read I=V/R. So I=3/150. I = .02 That's a long way off from the default of 1k in Tinkercad, but Tinkercad circuits and components are very flexible and forgiving. I do some actual calculations on all this stuff if you're interested. I use a 9 volt supply and a 5 volt supply later in the video. ua-cam.com/video/RIpxY0AiDbo/v-deo.html

@@MakeBasicElectronics I am well aware of KVL and Ohm's law. Your explanation is very detailed. I was just trying to kindly "squeeze out" of you the process by which you selected this resistor because it seemed to be left out of the video. I also understand that the intent of the video is designing relay logic and control of the default SPDT available in TinkerCAD. Again, thanks for the beautiful explanation!

I just checked out the video you left in your comment. You're the absolute man!

@@user-pt6ss7df9q Haha! OK, the short answer -- I just pulled out the default resistor and moved on! I wasn't sure what you were asking so I got into it :) I often get followup questions that I should have answered the first time, so you got the firehose!

Unless you opened the case and modified something inside I don't see how this is possible. You could try to unplug it from the wall and then discharge it by shorting the leads with the power and output turned on. Then plug it back in and recheck. But I'd suspect something outside of the power supply. Perhaps this is a stupid question -- but are you sure you didn't accidentally swap your meter leads? Or maybe -- does your meter have a switch with the option to change polarity? Have you tried another meter? If you don't have another meter you could connect an led/resistor circuit to see if the led lights with the correct polarity.

The pot is just sitting on the breadboard, not plugged into it. I use jumpers later because yes, the pot legs are too big.

Thanks for the thanks! Glad it helped!

Thank you for the thank you :)

Yeah it's a real bummer. No excuse for the garbage breadboards! But some could argue that the resistors with the thin leads are for automated insertion into circuit boards. But we should have the option to buy either thickness. But now you know! Now you can either go on with the knowledge so you can make it all work, or return all the garbage and buy from American sources if you can find the ones I mentioned. Hope it turns fun again! There's one heck of a big, fun, interesting, powerful world out there in electronics!

Are you asking a question?

@@MakeBasicElectronics Nevermind. I'll ask for help somewhere else.

With the proper interface, I don't see why not.

@@MakeBasicElectronics hope u'll have a tutorial about that 🙏😊

@@RGHNCK04 Sorry, that's not my area of expertise so I won't be doing anything along those lines.

That's a good idea!

thanks this helped alot

@@crazyorange49-OG glad it helped you! I make those little resistors last by straightening them out with linesman pliers and toss them in a bin.

Thank you!